Spanish Beef Stew

Catalan-Style Beef Stew with Oyster Mushrooms
In keeping with our interest in Spanish cuisine, I made this stew the other night. Again, it starts with a base of sofrito (slow cooked tomatoes, onions, and spices). For this stew, I used short ribs, which I rarely cook with because it ain't the healthiest cut, just one of the tastiest. I got very well-marbled grass fed beef for this, mmmm.

After braising the beef in white wine along with the sofrito for several hours, I threw in beautiful oyster mushrooms, and then the stew is thickened with picada. Picada is another Spanish staple, especially in Catalonia and Valencia, but one that can vary widely in ingredients. The one I made here contained finely ground toasted almonds, toasted bread, garlic, and parsley. This dish also got a dash of cinnamon which really sets it apart- only 1/4 teaspoon in 6 portions, but it was enough to raise an eyebrow from those it was served to. I may skip that spice next time because it's just too unusual to most American tastebuds in a savory dish. Finally, it was brightened up with a splash of sherry vinegar, also common in Spanish cooking. I am proud of my extensive collection of vinegars, but they each have a use in various dishes, and having just inherited two bottles of good sherry vinegar, the timing for more Spanish food was perfect!

Spanish Pasta

Fideuà
We've found that Kara really enjoys Spanish food, so I've been searching for recipes and am having fun cooking dishes that are new to me and classic to Spain. This is fideuà, or Spanish-Style Toasted Pasta with Shrimp and Mussels. I've heard similar dishes called "fideo" when Mexican (as seen on Beat Bobby Flay), and there are many other variations on the word. What they all have in common is Latin flavors... and pasta.

The story goes that a Spanish cook who worked on a ship tried substituting pasta for rice when making paella because the captain liked rice so much he gobbled it up before the rest of the crew got their portions. The trick worked and the dish ended up being so tasty to everyone else, he recreated it at various ports over the years and it became a classic dish.

It is essentially paella. But instead of rice, thin spaghetti is used, carefully broken into 1" lengths in a dishtowel. The pasta is toasted in a dry pan (with bit of Spanish olive oil) to recreate the sensation of socorrat, the treasured crusty rice at the bottom of a properly made paella. It's flavored with the aromatic base called sofrito—onions, tomatoes, and olive oil, and other varying ingredients. Then I threw in some beautiful large shrimp and a handful of mussels. The flavor is rounded out by smoked paprika, which I've used for years and love, but wow, it requires a deft hand. Try it if you haven't before.

The above pre-plating photo doesn't include the lovely parsley garnish and lemon wedges which should be served alongside, but it looks great in the pan. It was delicious!

A Study in Fried Chicken Part 2: Korean

Fried Chicken with Octo Vinaigrette
This is David Chang's recipe for fried chicken from his book, Momofuku. I was particularly inspired by his episode on fried chicken from Ugly Delicious (we rewatched it as I cooked, and if you haven't seen it, queue up your Netflix!). Anyway, here we have fried chicken with no breading, but the process is still lengthy. A whole chicken is brined in salt and sugar for several hours, then steamed (a technique for cooking chicken (and other foods) that is actually quite delicious and sadly underutilized by the Western world), and then after chilling for a few hours—of course—deep fried. The skin gets crisp, the already-cooked meat is very moist and you don't miss the breading. Here, it's tossed in Chang's "octo vin" which reverses the ratio of a traditional vinaigrette (usually two parts oil to one part vinegar) while showcasing Asian flavors like ginger, soy, and sesame oil.

Since this is a study in fried chicken, I feel a responsibility to compare, and I have to say that Morimoto's Japanese fried chicken is my favorite so far, but this Korean take was also stunning. I served four people and we all loved it, and I'd be happy to make it again. More than anything, it proves that it's hard to go wrong with fried chicken!

Cherry Tomato Salad with Soft Tofu + Shiso
Another David Chang recipe—this one, declared by Jean-Georges Vongerichten as one of Chang's best dishes—is a spin on a traditional Caprese salad. Instead of mozzarella there's silken tofu, instead of basil, it's shiso leaf (one of my favorite herbs and hard to find in East Dallas), and it's all tossed in Sherry vinegar, soy, and sesame oil. Half of the tomatoes are painstakingly blanched and peeled, the other half completely raw for texture. I absolutely loved this dish and found it incredibly refreshing, but not only do you have to love tomatoes, you have to be open to tofu, be comfortable with top shelf vinegar, and enjoy the unique flavor of shiso.

Ramen Noodles + Pork Taré
The final part of this meal had to inevitably be ramen. I half-cheated by buying really good refrigerated noodles and used their pre-made taré (a versatile sauce used to flavor many Japanese dishes, from yakitori chicken to ramen—sake, mirin, and soy). But I learned a lesson about how important the broth is, not only for flavor, but most importantly for texture and serving. I've successfully made serious ramen dishes that took days to prepare, so I have an idea of what I'm doing. But I tried to serve ramen noodles with almost no broth and it was weak. It was still a nice subtle component to the meal and I'd do it again too, just a little differently.

A Study in Fried Chicken Part 1: Japanese

This is the first entry of a theme. I do not fry very often because it's not particularly healthy and it's quite messy, but it is also an undeniably delicious way to cook food. I've noticed almost every cookbook I own across many cuisines have recipes for fried chicken, and I've decided to try out a variety of them. There will be more.

Japanese-Style Fried Chicken with Scallion Sauce (Kara Age)
From Morimoto's recipe, this is light and subtle yet complex—exactly what you'd expect from Japanese fried chicken.  This is not to be confused with tempura. Here, small cuts of chicken thighs marinate in eggs seasoned with soy, sake, ginger, and garlic. That's where all the flavor comes from. It goes from there to a quick coating of nothing but cornstarch (keeps it light) and then straight to the oil. Served with a dipping sauce made of soy, mirin, rice vinegar, sesame oil, scallions, and shiso leaf (if you haven't had shiso leaves and like herbs like mint or cilantro, they're very unique and I urge you to give them a try if you can find them; usually in Asian grocery stores). Here, I served it ichiju sansai style: protein, veg, rice, and a soup. I made miso soup with mussels, Brussels sprouts and maitake mushrooms stir-fry, plus fried shishito peppers for fun since they were fresh in season and I already had the oil going.

Bastille Day Niçoise

To celebrate la Fête nationale, the French holiday we call Bastille Day, which honors a major turning point in the Revolution on July 14th, I put a slightly heretical spin on a couple of traditional French dishes...

Hot Salade Niçoise
A traditional salade niçoise was considered lower class fare from its advent in the late 1800s, and consisted of tomatoes, anchovies, and olive oil. Today it has expanded to encompass all kinds of riffs that various chefs either admire or abhor depending on how they view traditional respect or contemporary homage, yet they all share some very familiar flavors. My version, here, has been adapted to Kara's and my own tastes. Tomatoes, haricots verts, yellow bell peppers, crumbled new potatoes, torn basil leaves, and capers in place of the more traditional niçoise olives—all roasted—beneath seared tuna topped with a runny egg and drizzled with a lemon vinaigrette. Served hot. Delicious, especially as the last bites are just the remnants of the dressing and egg yolk, thickened with potato bits, and spiced up with a few remaining capers. If you take note of the blue, white, and red table setting, you can almost hear La Marseillaise. ;-)

Blueberry Soufflé
This is not a proper soufflé and it doesn't look like it either. But it tasted good and happened to be fairly healthy as well. Whipped egg whites, sugar, and plenty of blueberry compote (fruit cooked down in sugary syrup), topped with toasted almonds. It's served on one of our hand-painted plates with the company stamp from Rise, a local restaurant that specializes in soufflés and French cuisine.

Onwards and Upwards

Welcome to the new blog! I intentionally made a little experimental dish for the launch. Nothing too fancy, but something that I'd hoped would be picture-worthy. If you're new here, be sure to read the About page and explore the archives. Without further ado...

Scallop Rosettes with Avocado and Creamed Tandoori Chayote
I love, love, love my plain seared scallops with just a little butter and lemon, and Kara loves them even more, but I wanted something different. When I stumbled across a recipe with my new favorite vegetable-like fruit, chayote, I had to go for it (though the recipe was truly rewritten with chayote standing in for the harder to find hearts of palm). I made my own tandoori seasoning from spices like ginger, coriander, cumin, turmeric, paprika, etc. Tandoor actually refers to a type of oven that is usually a large cylindrical shape, and it's a blast to watch the popular flatbread, naan, cooked in them—the dough is just flung against the side, suspended vertically, until it's cooked. Yum. Anyway, the spice we call tandoori can vary quite a bit (just like curry and various other Indian spice blends) and many versions have additional warm spices like cinnamon and cloves, but I stuck to more savory flavors for this. There's a dollop of avocado-tomatillo and lime puree in the center of the dish to cool the spicy Indian flavors, and the red garnish is slivers of pickled cherry peppers. The scallops are sliced along the equator and simply baked, no seasonings needed. A fun and delicious dish based on a protein we eat as often as we can afford in this house.

Goat Cheese Stuffed Mushrooms with Rosemary Breadcrumbs
Since I was taking a risk with Kara's absolute favorite seafood, I made something a little more predictable I knew she'd love. While these mushrooms roasted in the oven, I fried rosemary from our garden in some olive oil until it got nice and crispy and then it was tossed with panko toasted in the remaining oil, which all goes on top of the goat cheese stuffed in the 'shrooms when they come out. A nice little appetizer that definitely served its purpose.

I hope to see all my old audience back and ideally this blog finds its way to a few new eyes and curious taste buds as well. Here's to more culinary adventures!

Super Seasonal

I’ve literally been waiting to pull this one off for over a month because so many of the ingredients only overlap in availability for a window of just a few weeks. This is a rare occasion for my waist-line and my wallet. It’s a bit lengthy, but if you’re a foodie, you might enjoy reading what’s below.

 

Beer-Battered Soft-Shell Crabs with Spring Vegetables, Benne, and Soft Fried Duck Egg

There is a LOT going on here, but the star is the soft-shell crab. A soft-shell crab is a crab that is molting and has just shed its hard shell, so you just eat the whole thing (ideally after cleaning it a bit, most often served fried). They are plentiful for the few months that they exist and then they are gone. A true delicacy. In the US, we eat the blue crab and Wikipedia will tell you it’s available from April to September, but my boy Shane at Central Market can only get the hook up from about June through July. In addition, this dish features a pistou (a Provençal sauce similar to a pesto, less the pine nuts, and no basil here) made from pea shoots, also pretty seasonal. There is a bed of veggies under the crab (not totally visible in the picture), including English peas, leaves of garlic scapes (blooming garlic) from the farmer’s market standing in for ramps (low country wild onions) which I could not find, and morel mushrooms which are very difficult to find fresh and go for $60/lb. While at the farmer’s market—just because I could—I picked up duck eggs, so that’s the runny egg on top- even more richness. The batter for the crab contains benne seeds (a low country version of sesame seeds) and the beer I used is Shiner Blonde from Texas. I fried the crabs in a dutch oven outside on my grill so that the house wouldn’t smell sickeningly awesome for the next several days. The dish was delicious, the fry and batter was light like tempura, the veggies were flavorful, the morels remarkable—though the garlic leaves were a bit fibrous. I look forward to continuing to take advantage of soft-shell crabs while they’re around.

Benne-Buttermilk Rolls

Pretty much speaks for itself. Buttermilk rolls sprinkled with fleur de sel and benne seeds cooked in a cast iron skillet. Great way to start a meal. Fresh baked bread- hello?! Kara requested I brush them with melted butter and I think her instincts were right.

Raspberry Lime Sorbet

Dessert to finish us off. Again, not much to say here, but also seasonal, and even after making all of the above, because of freezing times, this thing had to be started several hours before everything else (days, if you count freezing the ice cream maker)!