On Linguistics, Symbolism, and Chinese Food

I was born in the year of the goat (or sheep or ram, depending on the region of Asia and translator). I took particular interest in ringing in this Lunar New Year because it’s again the Chinese zodiac year of the goat (the most commonly eaten meat in the world, by the way- thanks, goats- wish you were more common stateside).

On a side note, my dog, wife, AND mother-in-law were all three born in years of the SNAKE. Now you know why I’m always lookin’ over my shoulder.

Anyway, I looked into the lucky Chinese foods for the Lunar New Year that would be akin to black eyed peas in the South or 12 grapes in Spain. It seems that the Chinese rely on homophones for their symbolically lucky foods more than almost any other culture. For instance, the ultimate and most common lucky food is a whole fish, which in Chinese is pronounced “yu” which also happens to be the same way you pronounce the word for “surplus,” though they’re written as different characters. “Oranges" sound like “luck", a certain kind of yummy black algae sounds like “prosperity", and their words for a specific type of rice pudding sound like their words for “a more prosperous year.”

That said, they turn to some visual symbolism as well. Long noodles represent longevity- the longer the noodle, the longer your life. Several classics resemble gold ingot, from potstickers to spring rolls. Their traditions have tons more symbolism if you’re curious to look it up, but this email is long enough as is.

Tonight, we had some pretty basic vegetable stir fry, LONG rice noodles, spring rolls, juicy orange slices, and...

Steamed Whole Fish with Fermented Black Beans and Garlic
Salty fermented black bean and garlic sauce brightened up with fresh ginger and cilantro on top of tender white fish. Delicious, bold, and delicate, all at once. Perfection.

Happy Lunar New Year!
 
 

Vietnamese Surf and Turf

You know I love my surf and turf. Here are two more home runs from The Slanted Door. Two different types of noodles with crab in one and beef in the other.

Dungeness Crab with Cellophane Noodles
Dungeness crab is absolutely decadent, and as a native to the North American Pacific Coast is a nod to making this Vietnamese dish a bit more fusion. The best part might be the noodles, which are just barely blanched enough to become flexible, then allowed to dry back out which allows them to absorb all of the flavors of the crab and stir fry sauce as they reach perfect al dente in the wok. Cilantro for garnish. A new favorite dish for occasions that can afford that crab.

Ginger Beef with Rice Noodles
Pretty typical beef stir fry and has all the rich flavors you expect from a good Asian-inspired restaurant, but I know I reached them through organic miso and fresh CA flank steak and quality peanut oil, and not MSG and partially-hydrogenated junk. Served over rice noodles on a bed of lettuce, garnished with peanuts, and served with a unique flavored fish sauce to drizzle for that exotic Vietnamese edge. Really, really good.

(And the green beans I did from The Slanted Door a while back as well, which is a fave.)
 
 

Alice in Wonderland?

Just for fun with left over pizza ingredients, a breakfast fit for Lewis Carroll...

Quail eggs sunny side up, pan-fried guanciale, and a shot glass of orange juice served on a cup plate. Couldn’t resist. Have a nice weekend.
 
 

Angry Birds

Our Super Bowl menu this year was pretty classic- chips and dip, pizza, and salad, except everything was homemade, from the pizza dough to the dips (pico, verde, and guac) to the salad dressing (simple vinaigrette). Guests also brought desserts- lemon bars and frosted cookies made with homegrown CA tangelos.

I did the same two pizzas from the last email, but here’s the new, inventive one from the event (which has been renamed, thanks to Jonathan):

The Angry Birds Pizza
Dough smothered in mozzarella, topped with...
paper thin potato slices, cured chorizo (like extra-flavorful pepperoni, only something Italians actually eat), guanciale (like Italian-seasoned bacon made from pig cheek), crushed Calabrese peppers (think fresh red pepper flakes in oil), fromage blanc (basically creamy French yogurt), quail egg (pretty much like chicken egg in this recipe, but ideally sized for a pizza (also the CA state bird)), and then accented with a little fresh rosemary and a dusting of ground lavender-salt.

quail eggs + pig's cheek & pork sausage + pizza = Angry Birds Pizza