On Linguistics, Symbolism, and Chinese Food

I was born in the year of the goat (or sheep or ram, depending on the region of Asia and translator). I took particular interest in ringing in this Lunar New Year because it’s again the Chinese zodiac year of the goat (the most commonly eaten meat in the world, by the way- thanks, goats- wish you were more common stateside).

On a side note, my dog, wife, AND mother-in-law were all three born in years of the SNAKE. Now you know why I’m always lookin’ over my shoulder.

Anyway, I looked into the lucky Chinese foods for the Lunar New Year that would be akin to black eyed peas in the South or 12 grapes in Spain. It seems that the Chinese rely on homophones for their symbolically lucky foods more than almost any other culture. For instance, the ultimate and most common lucky food is a whole fish, which in Chinese is pronounced “yu” which also happens to be the same way you pronounce the word for “surplus,” though they’re written as different characters. “Oranges" sound like “luck", a certain kind of yummy black algae sounds like “prosperity", and their words for a specific type of rice pudding sound like their words for “a more prosperous year.”

That said, they turn to some visual symbolism as well. Long noodles represent longevity- the longer the noodle, the longer your life. Several classics resemble gold ingot, from potstickers to spring rolls. Their traditions have tons more symbolism if you’re curious to look it up, but this email is long enough as is.

Tonight, we had some pretty basic vegetable stir fry, LONG rice noodles, spring rolls, juicy orange slices, and...

Steamed Whole Fish with Fermented Black Beans and Garlic
Salty fermented black bean and garlic sauce brightened up with fresh ginger and cilantro on top of tender white fish. Delicious, bold, and delicate, all at once. Perfection.

Happy Lunar New Year!
 
 

Vietnamese Surf and Turf

You know I love my surf and turf. Here are two more home runs from The Slanted Door. Two different types of noodles with crab in one and beef in the other.

Dungeness Crab with Cellophane Noodles
Dungeness crab is absolutely decadent, and as a native to the North American Pacific Coast is a nod to making this Vietnamese dish a bit more fusion. The best part might be the noodles, which are just barely blanched enough to become flexible, then allowed to dry back out which allows them to absorb all of the flavors of the crab and stir fry sauce as they reach perfect al dente in the wok. Cilantro for garnish. A new favorite dish for occasions that can afford that crab.

Ginger Beef with Rice Noodles
Pretty typical beef stir fry and has all the rich flavors you expect from a good Asian-inspired restaurant, but I know I reached them through organic miso and fresh CA flank steak and quality peanut oil, and not MSG and partially-hydrogenated junk. Served over rice noodles on a bed of lettuce, garnished with peanuts, and served with a unique flavored fish sauce to drizzle for that exotic Vietnamese edge. Really, really good.

(And the green beans I did from The Slanted Door a while back as well, which is a fave.)
 
 

Alice in Wonderland?

Just for fun with left over pizza ingredients, a breakfast fit for Lewis Carroll...

Quail eggs sunny side up, pan-fried guanciale, and a shot glass of orange juice served on a cup plate. Couldn’t resist. Have a nice weekend.
 
 

Angry Birds

Our Super Bowl menu this year was pretty classic- chips and dip, pizza, and salad, except everything was homemade, from the pizza dough to the dips (pico, verde, and guac) to the salad dressing (simple vinaigrette). Guests also brought desserts- lemon bars and frosted cookies made with homegrown CA tangelos.

I did the same two pizzas from the last email, but here’s the new, inventive one from the event (which has been renamed, thanks to Jonathan):

The Angry Birds Pizza
Dough smothered in mozzarella, topped with...
paper thin potato slices, cured chorizo (like extra-flavorful pepperoni, only something Italians actually eat), guanciale (like Italian-seasoned bacon made from pig cheek), crushed Calabrese peppers (think fresh red pepper flakes in oil), fromage blanc (basically creamy French yogurt), quail egg (pretty much like chicken egg in this recipe, but ideally sized for a pizza (also the CA state bird)), and then accented with a little fresh rosemary and a dusting of ground lavender-salt.

quail eggs + pig's cheek & pork sausage + pizza = Angry Birds Pizza

Christmas Cooking

So this is a long one, but I haven’t sent one of these in a couple months, so skim and enjoy (apologies if you already heard some of it). I’m sure Christmas is a distant memory for all of you now, but Kara and I have really only been back from Dallas for a week. I got a stand mixer, a meat grinder, and several cookbooks for Christmas. In addition to a post-Christmas dinner for my mom and family, I dug into the cookbooks as soon as we got home for my dad and Lisa and then for a couple dinners for Kara and I.

These were all just too poorly timed for my own photography, but the included pictures are handpicked accurate representations of what I served to give you something yummy to look at (those who joined us in the meals would agree). I’ll try harder next time if Daylight Savings will throw me a bone here!

We’ve spoiled ourselves, you’ll see in the descriptions below…
 

Post-Christmas Dinner

• Beef Wellington- classic French-style dish, this is a huge beef tenderloin, dry aged, seared, covered in påté and a mushroom paste, and finally wrapped in a luxurious homemade puff pastry, and served with a rich sauce made from a slow cooked oxtail broth and a red wine reduction. Soooo rich.

• Chocolate Mousse- the take I did on this was made from dark chocolate, with a bit of espresso and brandy in it to keep it especially fancy and grown up, and not too sweet. Thanks to the stand mixer, the delicate texture was PERFECT.

From The Pizza Bible, a virtual textbook on pizza and all its various styles, with a serious focus on dough. Definitely the best pizza dough I’ve ever made, these took 3 days, including proofing time and allowing the sauce to rest and meld flavors.

• American Style Pizza- red sauce, mozzarella, and home-ground sweet fennel sausage, finished with oregano, Pecorino Romano, and garlic olive oil drizzle. Everything you love about trashy American pizza, but entirely homemade with love and high quality ingredients.

• Italian Style Pizza- mozzarella (no sauce), finished with prosciutto, arugula, multi-colored heirloom cherry tomatoes, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and garlic olive oil drizzle. Fresh, light, and delicious.

From The Slanted Door, a modern Vietnamese cookbook featuring recipes from a San Francisco chef’s incredibly successful restaurants. The modern spin is what will make this otherwise exotic cuisine (mostly) accessible to Kara.

• Spring Rolls- pretty traditional room temperature rice paper roll filled with shrimp, pork shoulder, lettuce, mint, and rice noodles. Served with a really tasty and complex peanut sauce (we’re talking homemade- peanut butter was NOT an ingredient). Peanut sauce aside, we may start keeping these on hand for Kara’s lunches she liked them so much.

• Watercress Soup- A slow cooked clear chicken stock flavored with ginger, then the only other ingredients are wilted watercress and small dumplings essentially made from puréed chicken instead of dough. Interesting and unique.

• Shaking Beef- the signature dish from The Slanted Door, it’s a pretty basic beef stir fry with red onions, but uses filet mignon cubes, so the outside has a lovely crust and the inside melts in your mouth. The sauce has a distinct Vietnamese flavor that is to die for. Served with a very interesting dipping sauce comprised of lime juice, salt, and lots of freshly ground black pepper. We loved it.

and the next night...

• Seared Scallops in Vietnamese Beurre Blanc- two parts ingredients that nearly make this dish by themselves and one part Vietnamese twist. Large perfect scallops and beurre blanc (white wine and butter sauce) do enough on their own, but in this case the wine is reduced with lemongrass, thai chiles, and shallot, and then after the butter is mixed in, a splash of rice vinegar, lime juice, and fish sauce is added. Then the scallops are garnished with rau ram, which tastes like a mix of cilantro and mint. It was AMAZING.

• Stir-Fried Green Beans- just green beans, but nicely done. I’ve noticed that while in Western recipes, it’s imperative to cook garlic just until fragrant, in Asian recipes, it is usually cooked until dark with a nutty and sweet flavor. So, this one has that kind of garlic with some sugar and fish sauce that all caramelizes into a thick but sparse sauce as the green beans are stir-fried. Delicious and easy.

That’s it. Probably for a while. Hope you’re all having a great new year.

-X

Below, one actual picture from all the cooking. Rather than the usual decorative bow made of pastry, my Beef Wellington was adorned with a Triceratops. Photo courtesy of Tevis.
 
 

 

Housewarming Gifts

We put our housewarming gifts to use last night to celebrate New Year’s in our new house. It's the first time we’ve rung it in on our own and not at the in-laws’ house in 12 years!

We popped open champagne from the Liebman ‘rents just before midnight, and I made two pizzas from the Gjelina cookbook Jeremy gave us instead of our usual cheese and crackers. I went pretty simple with Pizza Pomodoro Crudo (heirloom cherry tomatoes, garlic confit, burrata, and basil) and Spinach, Feta, Mozzarella, and Garlic Confit. Crispy and chewy crust with great toppings.

A very tasty way to ring in the New Year, hope you have a happy one. Thanks, guys!

Turkey

I planned to skip a Thanksgiving email, but I actually got a request for one and also wound up with a few things worth mentioning.

1. Gravy. I brine my turkey and then roast it for the first 30 minutes at 500º. This gives me a great crispy skin and very moist meat, but it means any drippings are more likely to set off the smoke alarm (and they do) than provide the base for gravy. This year, I finally found a GOOD recipe for gravy that’s made using the giblets only, can be made days in advance, and provides an amazingly rich turkey gravy. Let me know if you want the recipe.

2. Rolls. I made dinner rolls from scratch this year. Now, this is a lot of pressure because Kara is in love with Sister Schubert’s rolls. Her entire family knows to not even think about going for the middle roll if she’s around. AND, not just dinner rolls, but specifically Sister Schubert’s rolls, were recently ranked as the #1 Thanksgiving side dish. I had a lot to live up to, and apparently I delivered. Fresh out of the oven, which I fully believe is what homemade bread is all about, with Kara as my witness, I beat the Sister. Maybe not worth the hassle, but I did it.

3. Stock. I’m sheepishly looking at my feet for not making a beautiful stock with my turkey carcass in the past, simmering for a few hours while I regret eating far too much. I  corrected my error this year and will not make this mistake again. Swanson has nothing on my stock pot.

So, several paninis, cranberry salsas, and tetrazzinis later (if you’re on this list you probably have my tetrazzini recipe, which is MADE for Thanksgiving leftovers), here’s the most unique way I repurposed my bird:

Turkey Spring Rolls
Turkey marinated in Asian flavors with cellophane noodles, carrots, cucumber, lettuce, cilantro, and daikon sprouts in a rice paper wrapper. Nice spin on turkey!

and…

Turkey Ramen
Yes, ramen. This year my stock became a ramen noodle dish simmered with lots of Japanese flavors (ginger, togarashi, kombu, bonito, sesame) and served with a soft-boiled egg, toasted nori (seaweed), and of course, turkey. What better way to honor a dish misunderstood by so many Americans (myself included) than honoring it with a proper gourmet treatment reflecting a uniquely American holiday?

* Also pictured is my Thanksgiving spread which I know looks like everyone else’s, but they don’t all have the John Proctor and Abigail Williams figures on the table ;-) Look it up, kids. And yes, Kara, I know Puritans and pilgrims are not the same.