Angry Birds

Our Super Bowl menu this year was pretty classic- chips and dip, pizza, and salad, except everything was homemade, from the pizza dough to the dips (pico, verde, and guac) to the salad dressing (simple vinaigrette). Guests also brought desserts- lemon bars and frosted cookies made with homegrown CA tangelos.

I did the same two pizzas from the last email, but here’s the new, inventive one from the event (which has been renamed, thanks to Jonathan):

The Angry Birds Pizza
Dough smothered in mozzarella, topped with...
paper thin potato slices, cured chorizo (like extra-flavorful pepperoni, only something Italians actually eat), guanciale (like Italian-seasoned bacon made from pig cheek), crushed Calabrese peppers (think fresh red pepper flakes in oil), fromage blanc (basically creamy French yogurt), quail egg (pretty much like chicken egg in this recipe, but ideally sized for a pizza (also the CA state bird)), and then accented with a little fresh rosemary and a dusting of ground lavender-salt.

quail eggs + pig's cheek & pork sausage + pizza = Angry Birds Pizza

Christmas Cooking

So this is a long one, but I haven’t sent one of these in a couple months, so skim and enjoy (apologies if you already heard some of it). I’m sure Christmas is a distant memory for all of you now, but Kara and I have really only been back from Dallas for a week. I got a stand mixer, a meat grinder, and several cookbooks for Christmas. In addition to a post-Christmas dinner for my mom and family, I dug into the cookbooks as soon as we got home for my dad and Lisa and then for a couple dinners for Kara and I.

These were all just too poorly timed for my own photography, but the included pictures are handpicked accurate representations of what I served to give you something yummy to look at (those who joined us in the meals would agree). I’ll try harder next time if Daylight Savings will throw me a bone here!

We’ve spoiled ourselves, you’ll see in the descriptions below…
 

Post-Christmas Dinner

• Beef Wellington- classic French-style dish, this is a huge beef tenderloin, dry aged, seared, covered in påté and a mushroom paste, and finally wrapped in a luxurious homemade puff pastry, and served with a rich sauce made from a slow cooked oxtail broth and a red wine reduction. Soooo rich.

• Chocolate Mousse- the take I did on this was made from dark chocolate, with a bit of espresso and brandy in it to keep it especially fancy and grown up, and not too sweet. Thanks to the stand mixer, the delicate texture was PERFECT.

From The Pizza Bible, a virtual textbook on pizza and all its various styles, with a serious focus on dough. Definitely the best pizza dough I’ve ever made, these took 3 days, including proofing time and allowing the sauce to rest and meld flavors.

• American Style Pizza- red sauce, mozzarella, and home-ground sweet fennel sausage, finished with oregano, Pecorino Romano, and garlic olive oil drizzle. Everything you love about trashy American pizza, but entirely homemade with love and high quality ingredients.

• Italian Style Pizza- mozzarella (no sauce), finished with prosciutto, arugula, multi-colored heirloom cherry tomatoes, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and garlic olive oil drizzle. Fresh, light, and delicious.

From The Slanted Door, a modern Vietnamese cookbook featuring recipes from a San Francisco chef’s incredibly successful restaurants. The modern spin is what will make this otherwise exotic cuisine (mostly) accessible to Kara.

• Spring Rolls- pretty traditional room temperature rice paper roll filled with shrimp, pork shoulder, lettuce, mint, and rice noodles. Served with a really tasty and complex peanut sauce (we’re talking homemade- peanut butter was NOT an ingredient). Peanut sauce aside, we may start keeping these on hand for Kara’s lunches she liked them so much.

• Watercress Soup- A slow cooked clear chicken stock flavored with ginger, then the only other ingredients are wilted watercress and small dumplings essentially made from puréed chicken instead of dough. Interesting and unique.

• Shaking Beef- the signature dish from The Slanted Door, it’s a pretty basic beef stir fry with red onions, but uses filet mignon cubes, so the outside has a lovely crust and the inside melts in your mouth. The sauce has a distinct Vietnamese flavor that is to die for. Served with a very interesting dipping sauce comprised of lime juice, salt, and lots of freshly ground black pepper. We loved it.

and the next night...

• Seared Scallops in Vietnamese Beurre Blanc- two parts ingredients that nearly make this dish by themselves and one part Vietnamese twist. Large perfect scallops and beurre blanc (white wine and butter sauce) do enough on their own, but in this case the wine is reduced with lemongrass, thai chiles, and shallot, and then after the butter is mixed in, a splash of rice vinegar, lime juice, and fish sauce is added. Then the scallops are garnished with rau ram, which tastes like a mix of cilantro and mint. It was AMAZING.

• Stir-Fried Green Beans- just green beans, but nicely done. I’ve noticed that while in Western recipes, it’s imperative to cook garlic just until fragrant, in Asian recipes, it is usually cooked until dark with a nutty and sweet flavor. So, this one has that kind of garlic with some sugar and fish sauce that all caramelizes into a thick but sparse sauce as the green beans are stir-fried. Delicious and easy.

That’s it. Probably for a while. Hope you’re all having a great new year.

-X

Below, one actual picture from all the cooking. Rather than the usual decorative bow made of pastry, my Beef Wellington was adorned with a Triceratops. Photo courtesy of Tevis.
 
 

 

Housewarming Gifts

We put our housewarming gifts to use last night to celebrate New Year’s in our new house. It's the first time we’ve rung it in on our own and not at the in-laws’ house in 12 years!

We popped open champagne from the Liebman ‘rents just before midnight, and I made two pizzas from the Gjelina cookbook Jeremy gave us instead of our usual cheese and crackers. I went pretty simple with Pizza Pomodoro Crudo (heirloom cherry tomatoes, garlic confit, burrata, and basil) and Spinach, Feta, Mozzarella, and Garlic Confit. Crispy and chewy crust with great toppings.

A very tasty way to ring in the New Year, hope you have a happy one. Thanks, guys!

Turkey

I planned to skip a Thanksgiving email, but I actually got a request for one and also wound up with a few things worth mentioning.

1. Gravy. I brine my turkey and then roast it for the first 30 minutes at 500º. This gives me a great crispy skin and very moist meat, but it means any drippings are more likely to set off the smoke alarm (and they do) than provide the base for gravy. This year, I finally found a GOOD recipe for gravy that’s made using the giblets only, can be made days in advance, and provides an amazingly rich turkey gravy. Let me know if you want the recipe.

2. Rolls. I made dinner rolls from scratch this year. Now, this is a lot of pressure because Kara is in love with Sister Schubert’s rolls. Her entire family knows to not even think about going for the middle roll if she’s around. AND, not just dinner rolls, but specifically Sister Schubert’s rolls, were recently ranked as the #1 Thanksgiving side dish. I had a lot to live up to, and apparently I delivered. Fresh out of the oven, which I fully believe is what homemade bread is all about, with Kara as my witness, I beat the Sister. Maybe not worth the hassle, but I did it.

3. Stock. I’m sheepishly looking at my feet for not making a beautiful stock with my turkey carcass in the past, simmering for a few hours while I regret eating far too much. I  corrected my error this year and will not make this mistake again. Swanson has nothing on my stock pot.

So, several paninis, cranberry salsas, and tetrazzinis later (if you’re on this list you probably have my tetrazzini recipe, which is MADE for Thanksgiving leftovers), here’s the most unique way I repurposed my bird:

Turkey Spring Rolls
Turkey marinated in Asian flavors with cellophane noodles, carrots, cucumber, lettuce, cilantro, and daikon sprouts in a rice paper wrapper. Nice spin on turkey!

and…

Turkey Ramen
Yes, ramen. This year my stock became a ramen noodle dish simmered with lots of Japanese flavors (ginger, togarashi, kombu, bonito, sesame) and served with a soft-boiled egg, toasted nori (seaweed), and of course, turkey. What better way to honor a dish misunderstood by so many Americans (myself included) than honoring it with a proper gourmet treatment reflecting a uniquely American holiday?

* Also pictured is my Thanksgiving spread which I know looks like everyone else’s, but they don’t all have the John Proctor and Abigail Williams figures on the table ;-) Look it up, kids. And yes, Kara, I know Puritans and pilgrims are not the same.

 

Turducken, Pshhhh

I didn’t bother sending Thanksgiving foodie pics because I know you all pretty much had the same awesome stuff. I know everyone cooked or was cooked for yesterday. YUM! If I repurpose leftovers in a fun way I’ll probably yammer about that. In the meantime, I was impressed with this bit from NPR and thought I’d share. Ridiculous!

In 1807, Grimod de la Reynière put out a recipe for rôti sans pareil, the roast without equal.The daredevil-ish recipe calls for a tiny warbler stuffed in a bunting, inserted in a lark, squeezed in a thrush, thrown in a quail, inserted in a lapwing, introduced to a plover, piled into a partridge, wormed into a woodcock, shoehorned into a teal, kicked into a guinea fowl, rammed inside a duck, shoved into a chicken, jammed up in a pheasant, wedged deep inside a goose, logged into a turkey. And just when you think a 16-bird roast is probably enough, it's not. This meat sphere is finally crammed up into a Great Bustard, an Old World turkey-turned-wrapping paper, for this most epic of poultry meals.

French

Last weekend I intended to cook French, but I got caught up with the French-Asian fusion thing which is great, but not really French. So I made up for it this weekend.

Soupe à l'oignon- Our favorite recipe for French Onion Soup. Sloooowly cooked onions, broth allowed to meld with them for a few days, and topped with toasted slices of a homemade French boule and melted Gruyère.

Boeuf en croute- This version is Dijon-rubbed filets mignons, topped with Cognac-caramelized red onions, all wrapped in homemade puff pastry. Served sliced, with braised haricots verts (green beans).

Tartlets aux framboises et almondes- More puff pastry lining a tart with almond cream filling topped with raspberries.

Tasted like Paris. Now enough of this Frenchie stuff- on to turkey and countless sides! Happy Thanksgiving!
 
 

Jean-Georges Marathon

You probably know by now that my favorite style of cooking is a blend of Asian and French. In looking for recipes that reflect that lately, I've become very interested in Jean-Georges Vongerichten. You guys in NYC may be familiar because he has TEN restaurants there (plus more that have come and gone over the years). With no Jean-Georges in LA, and considering how hard it would be to spring for the $150+ per person price tag anyway, I did the next best thing and made a bunch of his recipes over the weekend.

It sounds like more than it is and this menu totals two lunches and two dinners. Also, these dishes are more about the perfect combination of a few quality ingredients and a little technique than everything and the kitchen sink with long cooking times. It was all very, very good.

(left to right, top to bottom)

Beet and Ginger Salad

Mushroom Spring Rolls with Creamy Ginger Sauce

Ginger-Marinated Tuna Ribbons with Spicy Avocado and Radish Salad

Molten Chocolate Cake

Jicama, Cucumber, and Carrot Salad with Grilled Lamb

Scallop and Mushroom Soup with Ginger and Leeks

Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Toasted Pecans and Avocado

Grilled Beef Tenderloin Skewers with Red Miso Glaze